Thursday, May 31, 2007

BEER PANCAKES

I loved to do word activity games as a kid. Yes I was a geek--a big one. One of my favorite reads was Highlights Magazine for children. As a wee lad I spent an hour doing the hidden word searches while waiting for the dentist. Okay, that was actually last week, but I'm sure I did it back then too. One of my favorite games was locating the word in a series of words that didn't belong. Here is an example for you:

Breakfast * Orange Juice * Pancakes * Beer


Can you find the word that doesn't belong?


TRICK QUESTION--They all belong!

I heard that Lucky Devils in Hollywood serves beer pancakes. Lucky Devils restaurant is owned by Lucky Vanous, the bare-chested construction worker from the Diet Coke commercials everyone swooned over in 1994.

Remember the ads? Of course you do.

The idea of beer pancakes was weird enough to capture my interest so I experimented this weekend and flipped over the result! The subtle beer flavor is actually very complimentary to the whole-wheat flour I used. Next time I may increase the ratio of whole-wheat to regular flour. I used a fairly mild Heineken brew for my batter, but I'm intrigued by the idea of trying different brews. I'd like to experiment with honey lagers, spiced pumpkin ales, or some of the other awesome bottled brews that are so plentiful right now. I think they might all deliver subtly unexpected flavors to these breakfast staples . The only odd part is traipsing out to the refrigerator to retrieve a cold bottle of beer at 7:30 am on a Saturday morning.

I'll get over it, I'm sure.





BEER PANCAKES

1 cup white flour
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
2 tsp sugar
2 eggs, separated
3 TBS butter, melted
1 cup beer *
1/2 cup milk



Combine dry ingredients in a mixing bowl. Add egg yolks, melted butter, beer and milk, mixing well. In a small bowl, beat egg whites until stiff, then gently fold them into the batter.

Form desired sized pancakes on hot, greased griddle and cook until edges dry and start to brown. Flip carefully and cook until other side is golden brown. Devour with copious amounts of real butter (and syrup if you must).


*I'll leave it to you as to what to do with the remainder of the opened bottle of beer that you'll be left with.

Thursday, May 24, 2007

AN OPEN LETTER TO DAVID LEBOVITZ, part two

(continued from the previous post)

From my hospital bed I can see the sunshine is warming the air and fighting off the heavy gloom that hangs over southern California this time of year. How I long for rays of light to burn away the dread and lingering sense of malaise that is draped over my head. A return to lucidity and acumen would be welcomed here.

I have, however, made measurable progress. The source of my delirium, "The Perfect Scoop," now rests on my bedside table. My fingers relaxed their vice clamp from your book and the only remaining evidence of my attachment is visible through the permanent stains and wrinkles on the cover and binding from my sweaty hands. The doctors who monitor my progress tell me that the volume finally slipped from my fingers during my last electroshock therapy session.

On a side note, do you happen to know of any good remedies for uncontrollable fly-away hair???

The memories of the previous days have returned to me slowly. I recall purchasing my copy at Williams Sonoma, grabbing an orange passion ice tea from Starbucks and sitting at a table outside Pavilions while leafing through the pages. Ed was at home preparing a lovely birthday barbecue for me and I welcomed the relaxed opportunity to thumb through this elusive, highly sought-after book and choose an inaugural recipe. Matt was way ahead of me, as were countless other people, and I was excited to finally be joining the club.

Which recipe should I make?

Where to start?

Ice cream? Sorbet? Granita?

Oh dear, this wasn't as easy as I thought.

My experience with most cookbooks is that one initial recipe jumps off the printed page and begs to be tried. I usually set my bookmark in place and close the book with a completed grocery list of needed ingredients. After I've completed the first recipe, I take my time and explore other areas of the book that grab my attention.

Not so with this bewitched book! There were numerous recipes promising frozen desserts worthy of those eyes-rolling-back-into-the-head moments.

"Ah hah!" I screamed as my eyes locked on a recipe for Malted Milk Ice Cream. I love the taste of malted milk balls as they remind me of happy childhood Easter Sundays when I would awake to find a whimsical basket filled with these treats. "That's the one!"

Oh, hang on. What's this?

I glimpsed "Roasted Banana Ice Cream" fly past as the pages of the book snapped shut. I dove back in, thumbing through to find the lost page. Instead, I tripped over Lavender-Honey Ice Cream, Coffee Frozen Yogurt, Pear-Caramel Ice Cream and Toasted Coconut Ice Cream. I shook off the distractions and turned to the back index to find my lost recipe for Roasted Banana. Scanning the index, Plum-Raspberry Swirl and Chocolate Chip Ice Cream Sandwich Cookies burned into my retinas.

I saw numerous colorful photos promoting intensely flavored ice creams, often with a single, seductive drip of melting cream that made me want to lick the page. Endearing stories and suggestions like serving the Mojito Granita with a fresh drizzle of rum sucked me deeper and deeper into the book. Each recipe I read sounded even more promising than the rest. Wait a minute? What was the original recipe I was going to make?

I now had six "must make" titles.

I again drew solid black lines through the previous items on my now tattered grocery list and carefully wrote new ones down in the margins. I couldn't bring myself to cross out the malted milk powder and candy. However, the market was bursting with juicy mangos and perhaps I should really take advantage of them. I quickly scribbled through the previously scribbled areas on my list and added mangos. I glanced at my watch and realized that I had spent too much time deciding on what to try first.

I stood up, tossed my ice tea into the trashcan and gathered my things. I began to wonder if the Mango Sorbet was what I was craving when nothing really said "happy birthday to me" quite like Malted Milk Ice Cream. I looked down at my ink-heavy list and determined that I could still read the list of ingredients I would need for the malted milk.

No, David, I do not suffer from terminal indecisiveness, as you must be thinking. It is precisely the fact that I do not suffer from such wishy-washiness that caused me such upset outside my local Pavilions. The text of your book invaded my mind that day and like a virus, re-wired my well-anchored abilities into something less precise.

I grabbed a grocery cart and entered the store. The cart I chose was well weathered and the front wheels favored the right side as I pushed. Occasionally one wheel would freeze up totally causing the cart to spin in circles like a Labrador chained to a tree. Normally I would return such a cart and take another more sure-footed cart. At this point I was cloaked in confusion and pushed on hurriedly with the intention of gathering the ingredients for at least one recipe.

Roasted banana.
Malted Milk. MOJITO
Pearl-Caramel.

These images floated through my mind like wayward spirits searching for the eternal light.

My cart, after looping through two figure eights, arrived at the display of ripe bananas. I grabbed a bunch and dropped it into the cart. I lurched off again, tugging hard on my cart to the left. The wheels froze and the cart nearly careened into an endcap loaded with fresh blackberries. I hesitated for a full nano-second before dumping two baskets into the cart. I grabbed the bananas, sprinted back to their display and deposited them with the rest. Back at my cart, I shoved off and immediately found myself circling gorgeous piles of fragrant melons. I wiped a bead of nervous sweat off my forehead and then picked up a golden-netted cantaloupe. I held it in my hand and eyed the blackberries in my cart. Suddenly, in my mind the cantaloupe I was holding morphed into giant chocolate malted milk ball. More sweat began beading up on my upper lip. I nervously glanced at my watch.

Okay, I decided that I needed to make two batches of ice cream. I put the sweetly perfumed melon into the cart, navigated my way back to return the blackberries. Before long, a bag of sweet navel oranges was resting in my cart and I was balancing three boxes of Oxnard strawberries and two mangos in my right hand.

Oh my God. I forgot the cream! Wait, what recipe am I making? Do I need cream, or milk, or half and half? I glanced at my watch again and noticed that a full hour had passed since I became a cowboy in this fruit stand rodeo. I wanted to cry. I glanced into my cart and realized that I had the partial ingredients for about a dozen different recipes, but not the correct items to complete even a single recipe completely. I took several deep breaths and tried to remember the initial recipe that had grabbed my interest. I scooped up loads of produce and began dropping things back on the shelves. I began to laugh. It was the kind of creepy guttural laugh that only Vincent Price could deliver. My eye began to twitch. The cart began moving in circles once again.

I arrived at the checkout counter with a cart overflowing with items. I watched the cashier grow nervous as she noticed the sweat dripping from my body and uncontrollable spasm in my left eye. She glanced at the security guard and he stood up just a little bit straighter and kept me in his sights.

I don't really remember driving home but somehow I managed to emerge from our garage with grocery sacks in my arms. Ed recalls his concern seeing me arrive home from the store with blood-shot, watery eyes and fourteen bags of groceries in the trunk (primarily full of dairy goods, fresh fruits and chocolate). He didn't call the hospital until I collapsed face-first into a bowl of Aztec Hot Chocolate Ice Cream six hours later.

He's been very sweet and supportive of my recovery in these last few days. Although I don't fully remember much after my blackout, Ed did manage to retrieve some photos from the digital camera the paramedics pried out of my hands. Below appears to be a lovely shot of the glistening Strawberry-Rosé Sorbet.




Also, Ed tells me that this one is of the Aztec Hot Chocolate and Roasted Banana. I apparently made the two and then decided to swirl them together into an exotically creamy invention. I guess that great inspiration can indeed come with insanity.



I'm learning moderation now through intensive daily therapy sessions. I've met some others here in the ward who share my story and we are forming a "Perfect Scoop" recovery group support session. While we know that it is impossible to swear off the recipes in the book, we have made it our goal to instead strive for moderation. Further, we've made it our goal to educate the public about the fantastic taste-treat sensations found in the book and to share its treasures with others. Below, I am sharing a recipe for anyone who reads this letter.

And to you David, I offer you my thanks for creating this book. I've given up the notion that you are in fact the Devil, or perhaps one of his henchmen. I realize that the problems I encountered were flaws in my own self-control and not your fault. I'd welcome you as a visitor if you ever come to Los Angeles on your book tour. The hospital security here have assured me that they can provide you with armed guards who will stay with you at all times.

Most Sincerely,
Kevin



Strawberry-Rosé Sorbet
from "The Perfect Scoop" by David Lebovitz

2 cups (500 ml) rosé wine (I used Red Bicyclette)
2/3 cup (130 g) sugar
1 lb (450 g) fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and sliced

In a medium, nonreactive saucepan, bring the rosé and sugar to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the strawberries, and let cool to room temperature. Pass the mixture through a food mill fitted with a fine disk, or puree in a blender or food processor and then press the puree through a strainer to remove the seeds.

Chill the mixture thoroughly, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions.

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

AN OPEN LETTER TO DAVID LEBOVITZ, part one

Dear David:

I am writing this open letter to you today against the advise of my lawyers and my team of mental health care practitioners. It may be ill-advised and the experience may only pen more chapters in this sordid tome of high wayward adventures that I've encountered since meeting you for dinner in Paris just such a short time ago. I risk more time in this unsavory institution, however, I must explore the curious phenomenon that your introduction has unleashed upon my life. I await the day that my dreams are not haunted by a green fairy who's red eyes burn at me from the recesses of darkened closets and beckon to me from the shadows under the bed. Most of all, I must implore you to unlock the grip of this book, this charmed , if not cursed, book you've authored so innocently titled, "The Perfect Scoop." This tool of the devil, masquerading as a sweetly ribboned, creamery-filled volume of "Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas and Sweet Accompaniments" is in reality a bewitched tome, printed and bound by the hands of a sorcerer!







Pardon my break.

Nurse Ratched just delivered my paper Dixie cup of pills and I must finish this before they pull me down into their blurry gray comfort. It is only in sleep that this book slips from my fingers and the spell is broken. My relief from its spell is only suspended, but not broken, while in sweet, sweet slumber. But like a tell-tale heart, it lunges into my consciousness with every waking breath I take.

Our meeting started pleasantly enough. I recall the park was alive with the sounds of happy children playing and calling out to their mothers for another ride around the pastel-colored carousel. Sparrows huddled together in the branches of baby pines and waited for fresh crumbs to spill on the ground from the crinkly paper bag of the neighborhood boulangerie. Your amiable demeanor and pleasant countenance held no trace of the mischievous undercurrent coursing through your veins.

I'm not sure exactly when the shift occurred. Perhaps it was while we enjoyed those delightful glasses of chilled Beaujolais at Osovignonthe while we chatted and watched Paris stroll by, enjoying the fresh Spring evening. Or maybe it was over steak frites , à point, at Le Relais del'Entrecote and our third pour of Beaujolais. Whether its genesis was over boeuf or Beaujolais, the dark curtain began its decent when your fingers slid that scrap of paper to me. It was neatly torn from the white paper place mat and read simply:


After gorgeous plates of cheese and chocolaty frozen pastries, we bid adieu and Ed and I set off on foot with the slip of paper tucked neatly into my pocket.

The shop is not easy to find. It's much like parting the mists of Avalon, you must firmly believe Avalon is there and assert your will before they will lift for you. The shop is tucked into a small street that would easily be missed by the non-believers. But for those who believe (and have asked directions from other shopkeepers), the verdigris Vert d'Absinthe shop appears.



I don't actually recall much after leaving the charming, anise-scented storefront except that Luc-Santiago Rodriguez sent us away with a neat little bottle filled with a gently olive-colored liquid. I have no recollection of returning to the hotel and managing the task of opening the door to the room. The images that do cling to my head are delicate and broken, like the remnants of an abandoned spider web that flits about in a breeze. I do recall speeding down Rue de Rivoli in the cool night air, weaving in and out of traffic at breakneck speeds, singing "Frère Jacques" and wildly waving my beret in the night air. I believe we careened through more than a solitary red light and gave high-speed chase to many horrified pedestrians who hurled shopping bags at us in their attempt to escape us.

Most unsettling in all of this is that we didn't have a car.

The French police were very kind and accommodating as it was an otherwise quiet evening. They woke us and helped us out of the fountain. One even returned my Absinthe spoon that he discovered stuck fast to the side of Ed's cheek in a sticky clump of partially dissolved sugar cubes.

It was a blessing that the customs agents in Athens seized the remaining bottle from our bag!

Once back in the states, I believed my recovery was advanced enough to purchase "The Perfect Scoop." Surely there was no recipe for an intoxicating elixir within the pages that would reignite the flames of my insanity. Right?

I fall now into the welcome sleep my day nurse has so kindly induced. Tomorrow I shall attempt to detail the rest of this story in hopes of exorcising the frozen dairy demons that have taken over my mind and body.


**Editor's note and legal disclaimer - 1) David Lebovitz is NOT a sorcerer or the Devil incarnate, 2) not all Dixie cup-wielding nurses are evil, 3) Vert d'Absinthe is not actually shrouded in fog, 4) French police are probably not really that kind, 6) Greek customs agents are actually very nice fellows, 5) and most of all - our bottle of Absinthe is perched on a shelf of our bar, still waiting for the right opportunity to catch a glimpse of the green fairy.

Monday, May 14, 2007

STUFFED SHRIMP WONTON SALAD


It's no secret that I'm not a huge fan of fish. The odor of anything but the absolutely freshest catch sends me sprinting away from the fish counter for the less tangible air surrounding the beef, pork and chicken displays. In spite of my fish phobias I try to incorporate fish into my diet with the hope that over time I'll develop an insatiable appetite for this healthy denizen of the deep blue. I've found several preparations that I enjoy. I've been adding spicy rubs to fresh fish and grilling outdoors with great success. However, I keep crashing into unsavory "fishcapades" that set me back.

I once trained for a job at a location next to a sushi restaurant that is part of a small popular chain in southern California (which shall remain nameless). Being one of the first to arrive each day, I was forced to enter the building through the back door. This meant that I had to walk down a short, narrow alley that also housed the dumpster for this particular restaurant. It was summertime and the afternoon temperatures easily reached 90 degrees each day.

Do you see where I'm going with this?

The team of workers responsible for disposing of the restaurant's waste took their responsibilities lightly. They made a game of standing on their loading dock and flinging the bagged remnants of last night's dinners into the distant dumpster. Let's just say that the Lakers would have no interest in recruiting these sushi-slinging slackers. Bits of fish, both cooked and raw, splatted on the side of the dumpster like those gummy wall-walker toys that kids delight in watching "walk" down the side of windows. Later in the morning, freshly cleaned silvery fish scales met the sidewalk, side of the trash receptacle, and adhered to the metal grates covering the alley drains.

The rising sun quickly turned this scene into a giant fishy funeral pyre. The delicate scent of the sea rapidly turned into repugnant shards of nauseating smells that stabbed your nostrils, mouth, tongue and throat and embedded there until long after you had cleared the alley, usually at a full sprint. At some point the restaurant manager would dispatch the workers back to the alley with a hose and orders to wash away the remnants of rotting fish scales, heads and tails down the drain. This was about as effective as battling a wild forest fire with a Waterpik. While the visible fish clumps would eventually be washed away, the odor was a permanent fog that hung in the alley, repelling even the ravenous seagulls.

During our recent vacation we settled into our seats on an Air France flight from Paris to Athens. We enjoyed exceptionally good fare on their flight from Los Angeles to Paris and I was now hungry and eager to hear what our evening meal would be on this leg of the journey. A bubbly flight attendant appeared and laid out our linens, poured us a glass of champagne and handed us their in-flight menu.

Then it hit.

The most disturbing smell began to waft through the cabin. Ed suddenly winced and his nostrils curled back in utter terror. I grabbed the menu and quickly scanned it with the expectation of finding "Braised Parisian Sewage over Tender Wilted Cabbage." The menu instead boasted fois gras followed by a white fish in a delicate citrus sauce. This was not the scent of a tasty mild white fish. The overpowering stench of some very questionable dead sea creature filled the aircraft and terrified the captive passengers. A small child began to cry somewhere in the cabin. I prayed for the overhead compartments to open and deliver us oxygen masks with a fresh supply of air. Had we not been flying at 38,000 feet over the Mediterranean I'd have forced the door open and leapt for dear life. To our horror, our meals were soon placed in front of us. Neither of us even dared to lift the lid from the plate in fear of releasing more of the cloying odors.

Needless to say that I generally steered clear of fish in Greece. I did enjoy a pasta dish with some really delicious shrimp that were served complete with heads and long crimson red feelers. I've always enjoyed shellfish (although usually sans heads) and this dish was a delight of butter, wine and delicate seasonings.


(That's one masculine pose, huh? What happened to my hands?)

I'll slowly work my way back into exploring fish with the help of a talented therapist trained in post-traumatic stress "dis-odors." I'm starting out slowly, with safe, friendly shellfish recipes. I made this salad after reading a recipe for "Stuffed Shrimp in a Silk Wrapper" from the "Los Angeles Times Modern California Cooking" book. I made a few tiny adjustments to the stuffed shrimp and plopped the resulting large wontons onto fresh greens with an orange vinaigrette.


STUFFED SHRIMP WONTON SALAD

6 jumbo shrimp, cleaned and butterflied

1/2 cup minced pork (I used one boneless pork chop)
1 4.5 oz can crab meat
3 TBS Ponzu (citrus flavored soy sauce)
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 TBS chopped water chestnuts
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 tsp ground ginger
2 tsp sesame oil
salt and pepper to taste
3 egg roll wrappers

Spinach leaves, salad greens, mandarin orange segments
and cucumber slices - enough for two salads

FOR DRESSING-whisk all ingredients together
3 TBS olive oil
2 tsp orange marmalade
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tsp white or rice vinegar
2 tsp finely diced scallion

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Mix pork, crab, ponzu, garlic, water chestnuts, cilantro, ground ginger and sesame oil together in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon a tablespoon of the stuffing into the cut side of the butterflied shrimp.

Slice egg roll wrappers diagonally. Be sure to cover the wrappers with a damp towel to prevent drying while you are working. Set one stuffed shrimp toward upper tip of wrapper with shrimp overhanging sides slightly.




Roll up shrimp in wrapper into a triangle shape, pressing edges together lightly to seal.



(yeah, I busted the tip of my wrapper off)

Continue with remaining shrimp. You will likely have stuffing mixture left over which you can use to create additional wontons without shrimp--or fill and roll as for an egg roll.

Place wontons on lightly greased cookie sheet and bake in oven for 10 minutes. Wonton wrappers should be just starting to brown on edges and top. Allow to cool slightly. Arrange salad greens, cucumber slices and orange segments on plates. Top each plate with three wontons. Spoon dressing over salads and serve.

Sunday, May 13, 2007

VACATION HANGOVER

We've returned. With tans, awesome memories, heavier suitcases and lighter wallets. For those who asked to see photos, I've inserted a Flickr page widget on the sidebar column with a sampling of photos that are fit to post here. I'll sum up the trip with these:


We've settled into our airline seats and are ready to get the party started!


And now, here we endure the 26 hour trip back home.



I'll get back into my kitchen after I recover.